Essential Gear for Speed Ascents at High Altitude

Over the years, I've refined my gear selection through extensive trial and error. Here is the gear that has proven most effective for me on this particular project.

While the journey involved some experimentation, it was largely successful, and I believe that practice and experience are the best teachers.

Although high altitude requires certain technical gear for safety, it's crucial to remember that a positive attitude and strong mindset are among the most important "equipment" you require!

SPEED ASCENTS:

Mini Crampons:

• Kahtoola

Crampons:

• Petzl leopard ultra light

Helmut and Harness  

• Petzl

Shoes: (personal fit & preference) Aconcagua is rocky and sandy in places at lower altitude, has water crossings, rocks and boulders. Snow in the high altitude and ice near the summit.

• LaSportiva Cyklon Cross Goretex Trail

• LaSportiva Akasha, Helios III, Bushido, Jackal II Boa

Running Vests: (personal fit & preference, find the right fit for your body)

• WAA Ultra 20 L, NorthFace 12L, Salomon 10 L, ON Running 10 L, Deuter 20 L

Gloves:

• Icebreaker layers

• OutdoorResearch mitts

  
  

Jackets:

• Ansilta Aconcagua Goretex shell (Men size - same jacket as Julian Insarralde)

• NorthFace Summit Series 800 down ultra light (2x blue and silver)

• ON Running wind jacket (ultra light)

• MacPac NZ

• Rab Ultralight

  
  

Apparel:

• Stellar EQ - pants, tops, shorts, hat

• Mountain hardware - summit pants (purchased in 2009 in Nepal, still use them! Love them.)

• MacPac NZ - summit parka, various layers, wool layers, tops, gloves etc

• ON Running - trail shorts, tops, ultra light wind jackets, caps. (ultra light apparel for the valley only)

• NorthFace - pants shell goretex ultralight Futurelight

• Icebreaker NZ - long jones, wool layer tops, buff (warm, tested, solid - love this brand)

• Mons Royale NZ - top layers

• LaSportiva - pants

Sticks:

• foldable 110cm, carbon, Blackdiamond

Sunglasses:

• Julbo goggles for high altitude

• Oakley spectra 4 for high altitude

Headlamps:

• Blackdiamond 250, 300, 400, 500

• Petzl 300, 400

Bivy:

• NorthFace Futurelight Assault bivy

Sleeping bags:

• Mountain Hardware - 18 C (for pre-acclimatisation / training)

• Sea to Summit -2 C (compact and ultra light)

  
  

OTHER GEAR TO CONSIDER:

1. Garmin InReach messenger + inReach Unlimited plan

2. GPS watch: (Coros Vertix, battery life)

3. GoPro 10 (rarely used)

4. iPhone (rarely used, wifi only in 2 camps)

5. Nikon mini camera + video (to document the summit in case my phone battery died)

6. battery banks only for training - rarely used them, def NOT for the speed ascent

7. sandals for cold water crossings? there were 3 cold water crossings

   
   

OTHER : A MUST FOR HIGH ALTITUDE:

• Global Rescue Insurance

• Emergency sleeping bag

• Emergency FirstAid Kit for high altitude

  
  
  

  

  

NUTRITION: (personal preference)

1. Switch Electrolytes

2. Naak carb drinks

3. Naak soup

4. Precision Hydration

5. vitamins and minerals

6. lots of pasta :)

At high altitudes, my favourite meals include pasta with red meat (Argentina!) and fresh fruit like oranges and apples.

Grajales Expeditions on Aconcagua excels in offering fresh, nutrient-rich food for climbers. The quality of food plays a crucial role in the success of an expedition. When gearing up for a multi-week journey in remote regions, far from home, making wise choices is essential. Plan with experienced companies and guides.

Meals prepared by Grajales Expeditions

Remember:

During high-altitude expeditions, your mindset and positive attitude are the most crucial pieces of gear you can bring with you!

Feed your thoughts well.

Feed your gut good, quality food.

Stay positive.

Surround yourself with positive, good people.

Stay in the moment.

Stay calm.

Everything else is just for show :)

But, SAFETY is important. So say "yes" to carrying the right gear.

Stay Safe and Happy Adventuring!